GOLDEN RULES FOR WEARING A MEN'S JACKET WITH ELEGANCE

In the wonderful world of men's fashion, there are jackets for every style. Do you have a selection of jackets in the right colours and have mastered the art of matching them with your shirts and pants? Congratulations, that's a great place to start! However, there are a few things you need to check before wearing them. An ill-fitting jacket can ruin your look at a glance and make you lose all credibility!

Do you have a business meeting or an important event where you must make a good impression? Here's an overview of the golden rules of length and fit for elegant men's jackets.

THE RIGHT JACKET LENGTH

To find out if the length of your jacket is right for you, stand sideways in front of a mirror, arms at your sides, and look at where the bottom of your jacket stops at your hips and buttocks. 

Is the end of your jacket sleeve flush with the bottom of your jacket? It's too short. Does the bottom of your jacket extend beyond your fingertips? It's too long. Does it arrive opposite the center of your hand? It's perfect!

Of course, this rule only applies in some situations. Some men's jackets, such as frock coats and tailcoats, have very different cuts and lengths from sports jackets or suit jackets!

THE RIGHT SLEEVE LENGTH

When you're wearing a jacket, the sleeves of the sweater or shirt underneath can extend past the cuffs. In men's fashion, there's a basic rule: only a little of the garment (e.g. 1 or 2 cm) should be visible when standing with your arms at your sides.

 
In other words, if the sleeve of your jacket completely hides the cuff of your shirt or sweater, it's too long. On the other hand, if it shows several centimetres of your top's cuff, it's too short. Simple as that!

THE RIGHT SHOULDER LENGTH

Standing in front of your mirror, look at the top of your jacket. The shoulder seam should be at the end of the shoulder, where the shoulder meets the arm. If your jacket has trimmings, they should be at most one centimetre.

Now, check how the sleeve fabric flows down from the shoulder. According to the Golden Rules of Men's Jacket Fitting, the sleeve should have no creases, dips or lumps, meaning it's either too tight or not tight enough. In other words, the line should be as straight as possible.

Another point to emphasize: even if your biceps are well-developed and make you proud (and rightly so!), they shouldn't be protruding from the sleeves of your jacket.

THE RIGHT FIT

The fit of a button-down jacket at the torso and waist - the waistband - is paramount! The telltale sign that a jacket is too tight? When it's buttoned, the fabric tries hard to adjust to your body, causing a characteristic X-shaped crease.

On the other hand, a jacket is far too loose if it falls straight down on both sides of the body without emphasizing the waist, giving a "square" silhouette that's admittedly not very attractive!

If your button-down jacket hugs your waist slightly and there are no X-shaped creases, it's the right fit!

HOW TO BUTTON YOUR JACKET?

To be worn elegantly, men's jackets shouldn't be tied just any old way! Many experts recommend adopting the "three-button rule":

• The top button: sometimes;

• The middle button: always;

• The bottom button: never.

That said, in 2024, 3-button jackets are pretty rare... and a bit old-fashioned! ;-)

After reading these tips, you may find that you've been wearing your jackets the wrong way for years, or that they simply don't suit your physiognomy. No problem! Armed with your new knowledge, you can now have them altered by a qualified tailor to get the perfect fit - or store for new ones!